Absinthe Un Emile 45

I was able to secure a bottle of the new Emile Pernot 45 degree absinthe for review. This absinthe is packaged in a 70cL brown glass bottle. The labeling is remniscent of the old style of absinthe labels, featuring the silhouette of absinthium leaves and a small image of a landmark found in the center of the town. Unlike the typical French products that carry the all-too-familiar vague phrase "aux extraits de plantes d'absinthe", this one simply reads "absinthe distillee". The absence of the 'infamous phrase' coupled with the clearly labeled "68% vol" ensures the 'export only' status of this product. The back label reveals this absinthe to be derived from a distillation of whole herbs, and describes how to prepare a drink.

Having been granted an invitation to inspect the production facility first-hand, I can vouch for the fact that this product is indeed crafted using the original alambics. This in itself represents a vast departure from the all-too-typical macerated 'absinthes' that litter the market currently.

Upon removing the cap, the aroma of anise is prevalent and is accompanied by a good bit of heat. Following right behind is a background mix of distinctively darker lacquer notes. The liquor itself is a light amber hue, and tasting it neat reveals a good bit of heat along with a spicy but dry accompaniment of anise. When diluted with water, the resulting liquid louches moderately, with heavy gradient lines swirling around the glass. The taste of the drink is crisp and clean, giving a fairly strong, dry anise flavor with just the slightest dry bitterness in the finish. The alcoholic strength tends to make itself more apparent in the head as opposed to the palate.

In conclusion, this absinthe is a crisp, refreshing aperitif, and its straightforward, clean balance is at least as refined as the best of the Swiss La Bleues I found in the Val de Travers. There is nothing about it that can be described as pointed or obtrusive, and it makes for a stimulating drink that seems to nicely compliment a summer afternoon.

(With kind permission by Ted Breaux)